courses in circuit - part a: a primer on purpose

after at least 1.5 in passing 2b, i did not talk much about the courses in here as i thought there is a different school of thought for certain courses and techniques which ppl agree. however, i thought it doesnt hurt to talk about the courses in 2b and at least highlighting certain oddities when it comes to executing the courses.

a: purpose of test courses
steering and low speed control etc is like one of the basics for m/c operation.
however, these courses bring out the finer details in m/c control, just like the s-course and crank course for e.g. in class 3 driving tests:

1. narrow plank:
   - low speed control; balancing -  clutch control; gyroscopic sensitivity of the rear wheel and the front steering; lane splitting (one of the evil sins committed after getting the license)
2. pylon slalom:
   - ability to plan turns ahead during m/c movement; countersteering; swerving out of danger in actual riding conditions;
3. emergency braking on wet surface:
   - all braking is supposed to be planned. if its an emergency on a wet surface the course gauges you on:
   - braking sensitivity - including sufficient braking pressure to not cause a front or rear wheel lock/skid;
   - ability to keep vehicle under control under rapid deceleration - especially wheel traction is limited
   - understanding of m/c suspension behaviour under heavy braking - front forks and rear shocks
   - chill factor: non kan cheong spiderness when you need to e-brake - especially on the expyway when a van decides to skid across a few lanes and you really need to stop in time!
4. s-course
   - small radius cornering at low speed with m/c under control
   - throttle control: maintaining engine speed and power to rear wheel under banked conditions - especially when traction is compromised
   - rear brake control: speed modulation through out course in banked conditions (this is not a good thing to apply on the road but braking should not be done when you are banked over or cornering or even turning. more on that later.)
   -  round abouts! =D
5. crank-course
   - ability to make sharp right angle turns in succession; or rather the ability to plan through one
   - oversteering techniques in space constraint
   - sharp angular turns in car parks (pls go slow when u have got the license though)
6. stopping and moving off from slope
   - ability to move off from slope when stopped
   - ability to use engine braking when moving down slope at controlled speed
   (beginners dont realise that not clutching in allows the bike to move slower in gear one than freewheeling downwards out of control)
   - stopping on a monster slope at awkward roads with a slope in a congestion e.g. on a expressway/certain roads in sg

in summary - basic skills tested for the courses build on:

1. clutch/throttle control or low speed control
2. steering - or rather counter steering; swerving
3. ability to plan change of direction in time
4. fine brake control - front and rear
5. wheel traction sensitivity or conservation of traction:
   balance between acceleration; braking; and cornering
6. motorcycle suspension - front fork and rear shocks - related to wobble!

the whole point of really doing well or at least doing the courses properly is to understand the m/c physics during machine handling of these courses. at least by listing out all these, hopefully one could point out what to work on when dealing all these courses while trying really haaard to pass.

i've also noticed that the school does not actively cover these m/c physics in the syllabus - especially on the importance of conserving traction and countersteering, when these concepts are paramount to the rider's safety on the road in the future.

for part b in another post i will touch on the oddities for executing these courses - you shouldnt be surprised by now that many of the demerit points awarded during assessment is due to things you do outside the course or when you are going into the course. - and of course how to avoid them.

class 2a?

i've just passed my class 2a! tips to passing doesnt change from class 2b but here's some to document:

1. the super 4 is much heavier. you will definitely wobble.
   practise your moving off and stopping smoothly.
2. 4 cylinders, 400cc = a lot of power.
   go easy on the throttle. remember you will get penalized if you dont throttle enough (poor acceleration).
   
   also, ease out the clutch the gear smoothly for smooth gear changing - or else the revs will jump.
   
3. short range lane change
   cant say much about this - look ahead, plan ahead, smooth and less abrupt moments = less wobble.
   
   
4. s course / crank course:
   bike is again heavier, and has much power.
   throttle control and dare to lean with the bike!
   
   dont go too fast though, you need to stop in time if there is traffic outside the s course and make a perfect turn out into the crank course.
   
5. narrow plank / pylon slalom:
   riding position on s4 is slightly swept back than cb125.
   this means you look forward horizontally, not hold your head upright.
   
   also, loosen the arms (dont lock the elbows) for easier low speed steering control.
   for slalom, it may help if you countersteer at the cone (i.e. turn at each cone early!)
   
6. e-brake - stop after speed at 40km/h
   braking power of a larger cc bike is incredible.
   this means you will lock the front wheel even more easily.
   
   look forward, lock your arms when you brake, and squeeze the front brake lever with your finger tips. too much force on the brake levers will lock your wheels - and you definitely will skid.
   
   also note that on rainier weather its more difficult to pick up to speed.
   avoid over-revving. you will have less traction to play with and also you will not be able to stop in time.
   
   there is no need to open vtec. seriously.
   
7. bumpy coursethis is new - series of 9 kerbs, clear with more than 6 seconds.
   key is to keep the going straight, stable, kerb after kerb
   
   half standing posture - keep the weight of your body on the fuel tank by gripping the tank. it does help to avoid sticking out yr ass.
   
   go in slow - too fast and you will be skipping through the kerbs too fast.
   
   every bump power - if you are already going slow, you need power to go over each kerb. throttle and half clutch control. personally to maintain at half clutch control, my left pinky is gripping the left handle grip to prevent complete clutch in.
   
   treat it like narrow plank: so look up - and you will go straight, not go out of course or fall.
   
8. slopenothing to say here - but remember to avoid clutching in after the going over the peak of the slope! let engine braking do your slow speed control!
   
9. blind wall / blind corner
   this is new as well.
   
   stop before stop line; check traffic from left, check blind spot; inch out a bit, check traffic behind blind wall, then make decision to turn.
   
   also, beware of L plate drivers learning to // park.
   
10. last but not least, be smooth. and ride like you are really riding a larger cc bike and can handle the power of the bike.
    
    they like to penalize on poor acceleration - underrev, overrev, or overzealous opening of vtec.
    THROTTLE CONTROL IS YOUR BUDDY.

pre-ride ritual / regular checks on your machine

i spend 4 mins on warming up my phantom daily before i move out.
put it to good use! here's mine in sequence

1. head light and rear light - MUST BE ON TO SEE FAR AND BE SEEN
2. left right indicator lights, check both front and back blink and cancel properly
3. brake light actuation - front brake; make sure can light up and go off the moment u let go the lever
4. ditto for rear brake for brake light actuation
5. front brake, roll forward and press, should be firm
6. rear brakes, roll forward and step, should work
7. tachometer before moving off - state of warm up

some extra checks:
1. if after rain, usually check for debris on fork make sure fork oil not leaking
2. tires - make sure not leaking/check pressure when petrol fill up
3. chain free play
4. clutch free play

that's the minimum i check. for the peace of mind, here's a T-CLOCKS list for something comprehensive.
http://micapeak.com/info/T-CLOCK.html

wobble part 4: more on lane change and wobble

something i left in the comments which i think should be included in a post on lane changing and wobbling during class 2b lessons - a summary for tips during lane change:

1. Lane change from point a to point b in a straight line. If its not a diagonal straight line across lanes and u hv to change direction-wobble!

2. Identify your path / diagonal line and aim your bike early! Dont rush into it! This includes early identification of traffic from the back.signal, check mirror assess before blind spot!

3. if you are going too fast, use the rear brake only to control your speed. Using your front brake during lane change may cause wobble especially if you going to miss your lane change end point.

4. Turn your head slowly when lane change for blind spot check. Don't rush your head turning. Move your head only. Move your body abruptly you will jerk the bike and wobble.

5. Maintain throttle during lane change. Don't suddenly let go throttle. Confirm will wobble. Use rear brakes to control speed. Power to the rear wheel should be consistent.

6. Last tip doesn't only apply only to lane change: whether u wobble or not also dependant on whether suspension is upset or changes position during sudden change of direction or speed.

in the circuit u cant go fast so this will be even more impt. All steering and throttle inputs should be gradual.

Be mindful of the front fork and rear suspension at all times.

a national day message: junctions = crossing of danger area

ohai! since i'm actually free enough to do an update on a national day, here's a clip to share:

the purpose of sharing this clip is not to incite a debate on whoever is at fault in this case. the whole point here is this accident is avoidable.

after riding for sometime, we probably realise by now that in singapore, sometimes right of way doesn't count. sometimes it's just luck that comes upon u when you're riding.

in summary:

1. slow down before a junction always
2. watch out for oncoming traffic
3. even if u are going straight and u hv right of way, cockster drivers will still turn right on u
4. if you are turning right, at least assess throughly before making that turn
5. and finally, slow down before junction PLEASE,going straight or making a turn

remember, ride safe!
you are not only responsible for your safety but also have to answer to the people around you when you ride.

==END OF NATIONAL DAY MSG==

u turn for class 2b.

3 different stages in u -turns for class 2b test.

1. queuing up behind a first rider making an u turn
2. positioning to the u turn point after the first rider go off
3. making the u turn.

stage 2 is the most difficult if there is a rider before due to the short distance movement and braking you have to make without point deduction.

ground rule during u-turns:
right foot always on peg to cover brake, left foot always down. 
if your right foot leaves the right peg, immediate failure.

lets go through each step:

1. approach and queue behind first rider making u turn slowly. stop without wobble, and stop close to the left lane dotted line marking.

why? you need the distance and radius to make the next turn.

if your the first rider, good for you, skip to step 3.

2. determine your first eye aim head level and aim to the right to a certain angle so that you can make your short turning movement slowly. anchor your right foot to right peg.

open throttle and clutch out slowly to make that slow turn to the turning point.
half the distance before reaching the turning point, close throttle clutch in and foot brake gently.

as an instructor put it, front brakes should be used 1% compared to the 99% braking effort on gently stopping the bike. do not over use the front brakes since this will defintely cause wobble.

3. once you are at the turning point:

a) impt: at least 2 lanes must be clear for you to make a safe turn. if its day light you might have to stick out yr head abit and giraffe abit to watch out for vehicle to make your turning decision.

b) CHECK BLIND SPOT.

c) turn your head all the way to the right for your turning point. the more you turn your head, the sharper your turn,

d) open throttle, clutch out, drag your rear brake to control the turning.

e) complete your turn as soon as possible and also as smooth as welll, shift up to gear 2 and get out of there.

hope this helps!

wobble part 3: lane change/ blindspot check/ turning

1. when you check blind spot, do it with a gradual turn of head. dont jerk!
dont rush into a blind spot check. the more excited or last min u do the checks, the more likely you are going to cause the bike to wobble.

2. lane change should be initiated by aiming with your eyes the end point you want to reach after the lane change. lane change must be done in a straight line during class 2b test.

if you do not lane change in a straight line from start to end, and go in a 3 section line instead, (like how a lightning bolt will be drawn), definitely a higher chance of wobbling with multiple change in directions.

3. before making a turn, make sure you have completed the blind spot check in time.

you need to slow down in advance and turn in a lower gear for more power during turning e.g. gear 2 or else the bike will wobble. also, look and aim where you want to go.

4. for sharper turns from stops to avoid wobble, lean the bike in the direction you want to go, make sure you do not drag the brake (this cost points in class 2b) and look where you want to go and open throttle gradually. the power of the engine turning the rear wheel should dominate the energy of the turn, not your body steering inputs. this will reduve wobble.

5. the best way to do this gradual is to have high situation awareness and planning before committing into a change in bike direction. the less last min decisions u make in steering inputm the less wobble. the faster u go and you change direction, the more you wobble.